A Biased (Cut) Review

Menswear blog Biased Cut sent in this very comprehensive review of the new men's jeans at Gap. I dig it.




Ms. Shoptometrist -

I used to be a frequent reader, but I think I lost you there sometime in the spring. Nonetheless, I'm back, and I saw your request for some input on Gap's Premium Jeans men's line. I thought it would be interesting to spend my lunch trying on their various cuts.

Now, to be fair, most (ok, all) of the jeans I currently wear are relatively skinny in nature. Not the super skin tight rocker jeans, but definitely far from any "boot" or "relaxed" cuts you'll see at most outlets. But I decided to sample three different cuts at the Gap: Standard, Authentic, and Straight. Skinny isn't under the Premium line, and it also isn't under $60, so I didn't try it.

• Standard: My first thought when buttoning these up was "Wow, I haven't worn anything this baggy since 'Nam". But they were comfy. So much so that I could definitely see myself sporting these in the great outdoors. While I can't imagine wearing them around the city, these would be a great pair of jeans to scrape up in some rough brush or scuff with grass stains. They were noticeably roomier in the crotch, which was a welcome change, and besides a little ballooning just below the waist, they fell comfortably down the rest of the body. Verdict: 3.5/5.0.

• Authentic: Again, this pair took a few minutes to grow on me (metaphorically). I realized that these would make a classy, more formal pair of jeans to be worn out on a nice evening. The crotch area was tighter, as most men are probably used to in recent years, but it felt strange because the rest of the pants weren't as equally close-fitting. I think with just slightly less fabric in the leg opening, we'd have a great fitting pair of jeans here. Verdict: 4.0/5.0

• Straight: According to the Gap, the only difference between the Authentic and Straight is that the Authentic is slim through the leg, while the Straight is... straight. It's somewhat ironic that the Straight is named so, since it gave my lower body a more hourglass-shaped figure. I felt these were too sloppy-looking to be worn for fancier occasions, but their loose fit definitely won't make them many fans in the fashionable crowd. Verdict: 2.0/5.0.

I didn't end up purchasing any, but I also went in with no intention of purchasing any. If I had to choose one, I would have chosen the Standard because it's what my wardrobe is most lacking right now, and inevitably slimmer jeans will fall out of style. Plus they had the best wash in my size. At $54.50, plus an instant $20 off, these are a pretty solid deal. However, if I'm in the market for some well-fitting, inexpensive jeans, I'm headed to 546 Broadway and picking up these babies in another color.

Many thanks to Biased Cut for their time and words! Also, in case you're curious about the skinny fit, Fashion Herald tries them on for size.


UPDATE: I sent my friend Omar on a mission to test them out and he's come back to report that his experience was very disappointing. Like the Biased Cut review, he tried on three styles and, much like my own experience with the women's version, felt they were certainly comfortable, but ran way too big and just didn't fit right. He also found the straight cut to be roomier in the leg than a straight cut ought to be. For a comparable price, he prefers BDG, Urban Outfitter's in-house line.

Photo credit: www.gap.com

A Little Help, Please

Dear Menfolk,

I'm cooking up a post on the Gap's recently launched 1969 denim collection (surely you've seen a billboard by now, bearing the "Born to Fit" slogan). The idea is that the design team supposedly put in a lot of time tooling around with denim, tweaking and re-tweaking to deliver new, more contemporary styles with an unparalleled fit at affordable prices (they're all under $70 a pop). I tried out the girls' version this past weekend (stay tuned for a report), and now I'm looking for some dudes (i.e., you) to let me know what you think of the guys' styles. If you own or have tried on a pair, I'd love to know your thoughts. Ditto if you happen to be passing by a Gap store and are suddenly seized with curiosity. I'd need to know the style you tried on, what you liked/didn't like, how they compare to your favorite denims, and if you'd actually buy them.

You can check out the press release to read all about the new offering and the nauseatingly 360 degree campaign that accompanies it (expect the usual: pop-up shops, Facebook interactivity, in-store concerts, and of course, an iPhone app). I do like the ads, but I'm so sick of the full-on, bombardier-style blitz, which seems to be de rigeur these days. I miss print. And jingles. And plain old word of mouf.

Many thanks for your contributions.

M

I Am Not Your Friend in the Morning

Did you miss me?

I'm up at the crack of dawn to blog. I've decided it's the only way to do it while juggling a full-time job, some semblance of a social life, and miscellaneous responsibilities. Anyway, please forgive my speaking of the English while I test out this new method. I'm not the most highly-functioning of beings at this hour, as anyone who has had the misfortune of waking up next to me can attest. You should feel lucky that you're safely situated behind the protective cover of your computer screen, and not one of the poor souls who has had to decipher my early morning mumblespeak, or been maimed by a wayward hanger in my mad scramble to get ready.

Anyway, I hate to do this to you boys, but your morning delight will come from Oak (again). Their buyer is just so spot-on with his/her picks this season, and if you're as pressed for time as I am these days, why bother looking elsewhere? The prices may get you, but time = money. As they say, it's cost-per-wear, so you just better make sure you wear the heck out of it.

Idol Radec's perfectly striped, raglan-sleeved Jack Sweater is sure to become something you reach for on bleary eyed mornings when it hurts to make wardrobe decisions. Here's hoping you'll also be sleepy enough to overlook the $252 price tag.



Kicking Mule's 1980 Fit Jean is the way to go if you didn't get enough sleep last night and skinny jeans require too much effort to pull on. $275.


The Asymmetrical Zip Hoodie (also from Shades of Greige) features a snug fit that'll keep you toasty all the way to the subway. $168.

Photo credit: www.oaknyc.com

Grey Matter

If you add one new element to your fall 'drobe, make it a pair of grey jeans. Acne does it best with the Max Antracite. $269 @ Oak.



Photo credit: www.oaknyc.com

Denim for the Discerning Recessionisto

Academi Denim is probably the best under-$100 denim find for guys right now. The line was started by the enviro-friendly, socially conscious, incredibly stylish folks behind Good Society and apparently uses premium Japanese denim sourced from the same mills that supply higher end denim brands. Featuring great washes (I'm loving the grey) and clean styling, they're a great option if you're not keen on dropping top dollar for your denim, but not exactly a Cheap Monday kind of guy.

Straight Indigo Selvage, $80 @ Context.

Straight Grey Selvage, $80 @ Context.
Photo credit: www.contextclothing.com

New Nudies

A friend of mine road tested these lately and pronounced them a perfect fit. The dry coated grey finish is really unique, and they're really more of a straight leg than the name implies.

Nudie Jeans Slim Jim Skinny Jeans in Dry Grey, $175 @ Tobi.

For more from the Nudie collection, click here.

Photo credit: www.tobi.com

ShopStyle for Men

My first menswear lookbook is up on ShopStyle. This one is for the urbanite on the move, who prefers a foolproof palette of grey and black to mix and match, stylish yet comfortable shoes for pounding the city sidewalks, and a bag to tote around a day's worth of goods.

Creme de la Jean Pool

Today is a good day for the boys. On the Shoptometrist's Men's Edition, I'll be covering two key wardrobe basics and featuring some of the best fall styles for each. The categories are denim and button-down shirts, the bread and butter of most young men's wardrobes (not barring tees and sneaks, of course). Styles don't vary much from season to season, but you do need to introduce a new one or two each season to update your wardrobe, infuse it with a little style, and keep you looking dapper. On to the first . . .

Denim for guys is skinny now. Just face it, and get yourself a pair that you can live with. Try not to go any skinnier than these, however, because I don't advocate suffocating "the boys." I'll not be responsible for any harm done to your reproductive abilities. Here are my choices for fall, and not a one is over $145.

APC's New Cure jeans @ Context, $140.

These are a great compromise between a slim and easy fit. Crate Denim Jackson jean, $143 @ Context.

Be mindful of fair trade with Good Society denim. The Slim is $90 @ Context.

Photo credit: www.contextclothing.com

Tobi Men

As their site keeps growing, the merch selection at style-savvy e-tailer Tobi keeps getting better and better. Here's a sampling of what's currently on offer.

A well-cut flannel blazer can work wonders. Helmut Lang Flannel Blazer, $760 @ Tobi.


The boys at Ksubi are proof that Australian designers can do no wrong these days. Heavyweight, minimally distressed denim in a dark wash and slimmer fit is looking hot for fall. Ksubi Dee Dee Slim Straight, $265 @ Tobi.


As fashion starts to go green, Loomstate is making waves in eco-friendly apparel. Loomstate T-Shark Tee, $59 @ Tobi.


Diesel Long Sleeve Garbardine Shirt with Chest Pockets, $160 @ Tobi.

Photo credit: www.tobi.com

The Slimdown

A number of my guy friends recoil in horror at the suggestion of skinny jeans, but there are a few who are unafraid and manage to rock them to great effect. After more than a decade, the saggy and baggy that dominated mens denim offerings has given way to another option. The newest look in guys jeans is refreshingly modern rather than retro-90's Eurotrash. Since the look only flatters a certain physique, you'd do well to stay away if you are heavy of frame or stocky of leg. The silhouette should read "skinny," but never "tight." I was once walking behind a gangly, shaggy-haired lad who gave me pause when, envying his lithe dancer's legs, I mistook him for a girl. Not matter how fit he is, a boy should never wear jeans that are tight enough to be leggings.

My friend Saurin , in search of the most perfect of skinnies, voiced concern recently that a pair of Cheap Mondays he'd bought might just be too tight. I decided to look into the matter and find a pair that managed to be more modern cool than fashion victim. Here's a look from recently launched Cassette, an LA-based label that espouses a philosophy of eschewing the "over designed and over processed" look so prevalent in fashion today.

Slim Caddy 1909 Raw Vintage, $235. The fact that they're low-rise and scrunchy is a nice counterpoint to the tapered leg, making them perfect for reluctant guys attempting the look for the first time. Sold out online, but click here for a list of stockists.

P.S. Their girls' stuff is hot, too.

Image from www.houseofcassette.com

The Classics: Men's Edition

I often wish I could be Steve McQueen, flying over the hills of San Francisco in a Dodge Charger. But don't we all?


Earnest Sewn seem to be channeling the McQueen with this jean in a namesake, not-too-faded wash. Clean and simple, with only light distressing and minimal back pocket detail is how I like it (I hate it when a guy's jeans are fussier than mine), and it's the perfect blue. They last forever and work year round, making them a worthwhile addition to any guy's wardrobe. Fulton jean in McQueen rinse, $230 @ Active Endeavors.